Today, inspired by the renown of the French-style pressed duck, we visited Chefs Club Taipei on the weekend to experience the exquisite culinary artistry of Philippe Labbé, hailed as the Chef of the Year in France.
One of his most celebrated creations is the Pressed Duck, a dish first introduced by the renowned Parisian restaurant La Tour d’Argent in the 19th century. This unique preparation method preserves the tender texture and succulence of the duck meat, offering a dining experience akin to premium steak.
Renowned Michelin-starred chef Philippe Labbé, stationed here in Taipei or a month, is known for his culinary excellence. He was named “Chef of the Year” in France in 2013 by the prestigious Gault Millau guide and has maintained two stars for both Shangri La in France and Château de la Chèvre d’Or Hotel this year with a remarkable rating of 19/20. Hailing from Champagne-Ardenne in northeastern France, Labbé began his culinary journey as an apprentice in renowned French restaurants, sparking countless creative innovations along the way.
The appetizer, ‘Sweet Beet Kiss,’ features a whole beetroot paired with a sauce reminiscent of Thousand Island dressing, creating a refreshing cold dish. With a dollop of sauce and beautifully adorned lettuce, each bite is like a kiss of flavor and elegance.
Next up, freshly baked French bread made with natural yeast, accompanied by the chef’s special garlic herb butter, carrying on the sweet and savory journey from the appetizer.
Philippe Labbé embraces seasonal delicacies, crafting dishes that evolve with the changing seasons. With boundless creativity, he continuously surprises diners with delightful and innovative creations.
Langoustine/海蜇蝦佐佩里戈冬季黑松露
It tastes like a blend of Chinese, Japanese, and French flavors in a crispy shrimp dish. The secret to its deliciousness lies in the special Ravigote sauce. And that little mound on the top left? It’s shredded apple topped with a dash of black seaweed and celery for added flavor.
Belin Oyster/法國貝隆汝拉黃酒煮煙燻湯
French Belon oyster simmered in Riesling wine-infused smoked soup
Hokkaido scallop/北海道干貝海膽茴香
Utilizing red and white onions, fennel, and a light dressing of olive oil and vinegar to complement the delicate essence of fresh sea urchin on the side.
Calf Cheek Meat
It pairs well with black truffle and windproof grass roots.
You can taste the richness of milk, which adds depth to it, much like savoring warm, delicate and creamy mashed potatoes.
I was surprised by a small piece of calf cheek meat, about the size of a palm. The meat is delicate and tender, and after eating it, I felt satisfied.
The French have a special fondness for eating calf cheek meat, which has an exceptionally delicate texture. Initially, I thought the meat would be chewy and full of resistance, but to my surprise, the slow-cooked preparation made it incredibly flavorful, and each bite was wonderfully tender.
Philippe Labbé, over the past 3 years, has been the head chef at La Tour d’Argent, a renowned restaurant located in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, right on the left bank of the Seine River. With a panoramic view of Notre-Dame Cathedral, this historic establishment, which opened in 1582, was once frequented by King Henry IV.
One of the restaurant’s signature dishes is the Pressed Duck (known as Caneton Frédéric Delair on the menu), a creation dating back to the 19th century, with each duck uniquely numbered.
The delicious secret lies in this: the essence of the duck is fried using a unique antique machine.
It is then boiled with red wine to make a unique sauce that makes it more aromatic and slightly winey.
Missing out on the chance to savor it in Taiwan, you’ll have to fly to Paris yourself to experience the exquisite craftsmanship of a French master chef.
We’ve been assigned a window seat with a fantastic view. It’s perfect for chatting, relaxing, and savoring delicious food.
The first appetizer consists of fresh beetroot paired with mentaiko (spicy cod roe) salad dressing. The vibrant greens on top, resembling delicate flowers, are actually edible lettuce leaves. I recommend taking a bite with a generous dip of the sauce.
The second course features beetroot ice cream, made from 100% pure concentrated beetroot juice, enveloping a vanilla pod ice cream.
The Hokkaido scallop is an endlessly memorable dish. Its flavors burst forth during a relaxing weekend afternoon, tantalizing the taste buds with remarkable sensitivity. As you savor it, you can distinctly discern the interplay of sea urchin, potatoes, and scallops, all harmonized by the delightful touch of mentaiko (spicy cod roe) sauce.
Freshly Skin-Peeled Fish/ 新鮮現流剝皮魚
What sets apart this dish of edamame, pickled radish, and edible chrysanthemum is the zesty citrus-infused sauce that perfectly complements the tender fish. As I took that first refreshing bite, the combination with the pickled radish provided a clean and invigorating sensation, completely devoid of any fishy aftertaste.
The chef’s special oil-sealed duck leg is served with a unique sauce. The exquisite duck leg meat can be dipped into the rich and flavorful sauce on the left, or paired with the subtle tanginess of the hibiscus flower sauce and pickles. With each bite, it becomes more appetizing.
When I tasted this seasonal fruit dessert platter, my admiration for the chef reached its peak: the exquisite combination of fruit, sorbet, and sauce was truly remarkable.
Who? Only a skilled and daring chef could combine Taiwanese seasonal mango, coconut ice cream, papaya, yogurt, peach slices, fried matcha cookies, and duck meat dumplings.
My stomach was already satisfied, and finally, they brought over coffee and tea. Unexpectedly, what arrived was a dessert platter paired with beverages that left everyone amused. Upon seeing the strawberry juice and the giant strawberries , anyone would still find room to indulge. When you bite into the fresh strawberries, you discover the delicate cream sourced from Taiwan’s Chulu.
The house-special seasonal strawberry cake in the restaurant is truly adorned with an abundance of fresh strawberries 🍓. Moreover, the cream is rich with the flavor of vanilla bean pods. On top, they sprinkle gold leaf and accent it with fresh mint leaves, delighting the senses.
