Resort in Primitive Nature

Living in a cozy wooden cabin nestled in the high-altitude mountains, absorbing the essence of the sun and moon, waking up to the symphony of insects and birds—this kind of priceless, natural enjoyment holds more allure for me than staying in luxurious city hotels. And not to mention the elusive “Tai Ping Shan Zhuang,” the most sought-after single room in all of Taiwan.

On Tai Ping Mountain, the rooms don’t have bathtubs for soaking. However, we decided to visit the well-known “ 鳩之澤 Hot Spring”. The hot spring water here is renowned for its skin-beautifying effects. Sourced from geothermal springs 2,200 meters deep, the water’s initial temperature is around 140 degrees Celsius. It’s then adjusted to a comfortable 38-42 degrees Celsius for a relaxing soak.

This hot spring has clear, ocean-blue water that’s odorless and colorless. After just a few minutes of soaking, it relieves muscle tension and leaves your skin feeling smooth. No wonder it’s called the ‘Beauty Bath.’ Take it slow, enjoy the natural surroundings, and let go of life’s burdens. Immersing in this natural hot spring rejuvenates both body and mind.

鳩之澤 is surrounded by mountains, and its name comes from the gentle flow of water and the cooing of pigeons. After soaking in the hot spring, I checked my watch and realized it was around 2 PM. Perfect timing to drive to the nearby Taiping Mountain Resort.

On our way, we took a stroll around the Jiuzhi Swamp, where the gentle flow of water and the cooing of pigeons create a serene atmosphere. Finally, we arrived at the Taiping Mountain Resort just before evening.

Taiping Mountain Resort is currently the most significant accommodation and dining hub within the Taiping Mountain National Forest Recreation Area. As you step inside, you’ll find the reception desk for guest check-in. The lobby also houses a shop where you can purchase goods and a dining area.

Here is rich in bird resources, and it’s known as the guardian of the forest. Among the eight owl species recorded during surveys in Taiping Mountain, the Gray Wood Owl is the most frequently seen. It stands out as a key indicator species for the area.

The best way to build endurance here is by climbing stairs. Luckily, Yoyo is used to hiking and strong enough to tackle this flight of stairs.

Booking a stay at Lodge is quite challenging. The online reservation system only opens two months in advance. For example, if you plan to stay on July 1st, the system will allow bookings starting from May 1st. Keep in mind that reservations for the day before and the same day are not accepted online. Instead, you’ll need to contact the lodge directly

The area around the stairs not only offers beautiful views but also serves as a meeting point for various hiking trails. It’s a favorite spot among mountain enthusiasts.

After a walk, coming back to the Red Cedar Log Cabin feels like a fairy tale—rooms here get snapped up instantly! Just the idea of enjoying fresh mountain air in this hidden spot makes it totally worthwhile!

We were lucky to book the ‘Red Cedar Log Cabin’ four-person room two months in advance. While it’s not luxurious, it’s very comfortable and spacious. The blankets are warm and clean, and each person gets their own single bed.

The house is clean, bright, and spacious. Most of the materials used are natural wood, which makes it feel like you’re constantly breathing in fresh air. The space is scented with the natural fragrance of cedarwood. And the view is simply amazing, allowing you to see both the stars and the sea of clouds.

All the tables and chairs are made from cedarwood, and as soon as you step inside, you can smell the natural fragrance of the wood.

The Tai Ping Shan Lodge is an environmentally friendly hotel. They don’t provide bottled water, but if you need drinking water, you can use the water dispenser outside your room. You can also boil water in the small kettle on the tea table and use it for making tea or drinking directly. Inside the room, they also offer complimentary green tea and black tea bags

Taking care of the all-natural cedarwood requires attention. The dehumidifier inside the room runs for nearly 12 hours during the day to keep the indoor space dry and maintain the dryness of the wooden floor.

For eco-friendly, they don’t provide disposable toiletries, so remember to bring your own towels, toothbrush, and toothpaste.

While they don’t provide large bath towels, each person in the room is responsible for a small towel. After use, you can take it home with you.

It offers delightful six-course dishes and customizable table reservations. For breakfast, they serve a self-serve Chinese-style buffet. During meals, they don’t provide disposable utensils, and their restaurant ingredients are organic and locally sourced, prepared with a focus on low-carbon cooking.

This tasty dish is a stir-fried vegetable medley with fermented bean sauce and bitter melon. It’s super satisfying, and even the flavorful broth is used to soak the rice.

After a simple dinner, we went to the Cloud Sea Café. My husband ordered a cup of coffee and said it was good, but since it was late, I didn’t dare to drink any. Instead, I sat and watched a video called “Tai Ping Shan History” that was playing there.

After we got back to the hotel, we prepared for bed. Because there’s no light pollution in the mountains, I decided not to use any electronic devices. The next morning, around 5 o’clock, we got up and went for a walk to the observation deck together. The temperature difference between morning and evening up on the mountain is quite big, so it’s important to wear a warm coat early in the day.

People say that the mountain view changes very fast. Sometimes it’s misty and mysterious, and other times the sunlight shines brightly.

I’m not particularly passionate about chasing sunrises. Thanks to my stay at the Taiping Mountain Lodge, it’s just a short flight of stairs away from the sunrise viewing platform. The last time I witnessed such an early sunrise was a decade ago in Mt. Ali. Back then, I woke up at 3 a.m., but this time at Taiping Mountain, I slept until 5 a.m. before rising to chase the sunrise.

As the sun gradually rises, the temperature follows a linear ascent. I strolled to the renowned Bumper Train Station here, exploring its unique old -time charm.

For modern folks, the ‘bumper train’ is an essential amusement ride to experience when visiting. However, in historical context, it played a crucial role as Taiwan’s unsung hero in transporting timber from the mountains to the plains. It significantly fueled the local forestry economy during that era.

Continuing to ascend the stairs, I arrived at Zhen’an Temple. This temple has an interesting history—it was originally a Japanese Shinto shrine but now houses deities like Guan Yin Bodhisattva and the Earth God. It feels more like the guardian spirit of Tai Ping Mountain, standing quietly at the highest elevation in Yilan. The air exudes a mysterious and serene energy.

Since the restaurant serves meals at 7 o’clock, we arrived promptly after our walk to savor the breakfast buffet all made with the fresh ingredients from the mountain.

I took a whole plate of green vegetables, paired it with a bowl of rice porridge, and sprinkled some meat floss on top. When you’re up in the mountains, this is the kind of nutrient-packed, wholesome breakfast you should enjoy. After replenishing your body with essential nutrients, you’ll be ready for the exciting adventures that lie ahead!

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